From:
"Sukie Crandall"
Date: 2007-04-11 14:26:13 UTC
Subject: [ferrethealth] Re: Saturday I got my first ferret...
To: ferrethealth@yahoogroups.com
Some places (many private breeders, PetSmart unless
things have changed) sell ferrets after all of the adult
teeth have erupted and after the full series of kit canine
distemper shots have been given, and they will provide
papers on that score including an offical vet's certificate
saying which vet and hospital gave the rabies shot and
when.
MOST PET STORES sell kits that have NOT HAD MORE
THAN THE FIRST CANINE DISTEMPER SHOT and have NOT
HAD THE RABIES SHOT.
The typical timing of the canine distemper vaccines is
approximately weeks 8, 11, and 14 OR approximately weeks
8, 12, and 16. The rabies vaccine can't be given until after age
12 weeks with some vets preferring to wait another month or
two to be safest.
The vet will also check general health and make sure that the
adult teeth are coming in properly.
Ferrets need a LOT of exercise and they need to be able
to get into complete darkness at all times. In fact, the
amount should add up to about 14 hours hours of darkness
in each 24 hour period. If you read past vet posts from
AFERRETVET on adrenal disease prevention you will know why.=20
Make sure that any cage is large, that you are not using
pine or cedar shavings, that you have a large enough litter
box (since ferrets will avoid one that is too small) and that
in the beginning to train the ferret you leave a little waste
in when you change the litter box. Hammocks, wooden nest
with bedding, cage covers and other ways to comfortably
sleep in darkness at any time are very important.
Aim to have your ferret be able to be out and able to get
exercise or nap as desired most of any given day.
NEVER give a ferret rubber or latex toys, never give a ferret hard
veggies or hard dried fruits. Make sure they do not eat their
bedding. If they eat in bed then cover any fake sheep's fleece with
sheeting material (which will also make the beds last longer and
be easier to clean). All of these things will reduce the risk of a
life threatening blockage.=20
Remember that ferrets can get acute kidney failure from too many
raisins or too many grapes, just as dogs or cats can so it is best
to not give those.
Unless there is a reason to not do so, such as the individual being
prone to developing cystine uroliths, having kidney disease, or on
vet advice for any other reason (such as very advanced age) provide
a food made specifically for ferrets which is very high in animal
protein and high in fat. Many people mix several of these foods
for multiple reasons.
Ferrets sneeze for several reasons. Occasional sneezing is not
a great concern usually. They get dust in their noses. Also they
often hold their noses to force sneezes and then "face wash"
spreading scent from glands that are behind and somewhat below
their ears over their faces. (I've also seen a mother Black Footed
Ferret on the national zoo camera site do this so it's not just our
domestic ferret species. Very young kits won't have that scent, yet.
Later, when the ferret sneezes you will smell an immediate, short
lived increase in scent near the ears.
Attach wire mesh, a board, or another barrier to bottom of sofa. Put
a heavy plastic suitable for floor use over the part of the carpet
where he is digging.
Keep ferrets out of rooms with hazards.
If the ferret can get into the kitchen or bathroom lie on the floor and
check with eyes and hands for possible dangerous access to areas next
to and under cabinets, behind stove (Many stoves are hardwired in and
have a hole in the wall instead of a plug, plus there can be access, burnin=
g,
and gas hazards.), fridge (motor and fan, etc.), sinks (ditto holes in wall=
s)
for holes in wall), and so on.
Many kitchen appliance need air circulation but ferrets need to stay out of=
them. Get some caging wire or metal screens and cut to a size that will be=
firm enough in the location. You can use hooks or wire to attach them to
appliance feet. Make that removable for cleaning.
Look for places between kitchen cabinets where only the rubber molding
extends. Loosen the overlap fo the rubber molding and check them. If
they are blind alleys then for most (not all) ferrets they are safe hideawa=
y
stash plashes but still check them and the molding regularly and make
sure the molding is easily movable for you. Otherwise or if there are any=
openings, hoses, access to appliances, etc. work up a way to close them
off throughly enough. If they chew on the molding you need an alternative.
Try to work up a barrier for when you are cooking or cutting things if ther=
e is any chance
that a ferret will be out. We have a series of panels that are used to mak=
e metal ferret
playpens and because they come apart too easily we also have them tied clos=
ed. Usually
they mostly store behind a bookcase that is outside the kitchen but when I =
need to use
them I can pull them across and have the other side go behind a storage she=
lf on the other
side. Then I tighten it on the bookcase side by placing two paperback book=
s in there, too
so the panels are firmly lodged. On the middle panels we hang bright ribbo=
ns os that a
person does not accidently walk into them.
If there are floor heating and cooling vents or air returns make sure that=
they are firmly attached to prevent a ferret falling into a furnace.
Before running clothes washer or drier put each piece of clothing in
separately to make sure that no ferret is in it and feel around before
turning it on. Check in dish washer twice before turning on.
Do not use a recliner. If you must use one then make sure the ferret
is secure is a large enough cage before doing so.
Put a barrier like chicken wire or very heavy cloth (I can't recall the rig=
ht
term) on the base of mattress or innerspring, couch, etc. On a platform be=
d
a sheet of plywood between the slats and mattress is among the things that=
work.
I don't like some of the links from this site but the site itself has some =
good
training info.=20
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Lofts/1083/probintro.html
It is actually an old one designed for rehabbing "problem" ferrets. Take
that phrase with a grain of salt because as with cats and dogs the vast
majority (though not all) of such situations involve problem human actions
which cause the bad ferret behavior. Times out for bad behavior and loads
or praise for good behavior work best for ferret training. That is based u=
pon
26 years now with ferrets, including rehabbing.
Keep the Animal Poison Control phone numbers on your kitchen message
board, or fridge (even using their free magnets), or written on the front
of your phonebook in a prominent way. The ASPCA site people are
WONDERFUL (personal experience just to be safest with an iffy sitiuation)
and am sure all who would go into helping poisoned animals are, and
with more than one if there are phone line troubles in one area you can
still be helped. The fee is per CASE so you can call again with your case=
number on the same case when there is need for follow-up.
BEGIN QUOTES
As the premier animal poison control center in North America, the APCC
is your best resource for any animal poison-related emergency, 24 hours
a day, 365 days a year. If you think that your pet may have ingested a
potentially poisonous substance, make the call that can make all the
difference: (888) 426-4435. A $55 consultation fee may be applied to
your credit card.
Call the Angell Animal Poison Control Hotline at 1-877-2ANGELL.
24 hours a day =85 Veterinary help is just a phone call away!
To help pet caretakers deal with these emergencies, the Angell Animal
Medical Centers have teamed up with the ASPCA's board-certified
veterinary toxicologists to offer a unique 24/7 poison hotline. Help
is now just a phone call away.
[That has the same fee the last I checked. --SDC]
END QUOTES
To help you avoid poisoning situations or respond properly when they
happen info can be linked to from
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/ferrethealth/links
has multiple links to help you and a little more can be found in
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/ferrethealth/files/
FINDING VETS
http://ferrethealth.org/vets/
http://www.miamiferret.org/fhc/vets.htm
http://www.ferretcongress.org (crit refs but there is a lot more there)
http://www.supportourshelters.org (shelters and the vets they use)
http://www.quincyweb.net/quincy/vet.html
http://www.ferretcentral.org/for-others/db-vets.html
http://www.ferretuniverse.com/index.html
http://www.geocities.com/houseferrets13uk/Vets.html (UK vets)
http://www.ferrets.org/Veterinarian_Listings.htm (British Columbia vets)
http://www.ferretnews.org/clinic.html (California-specific)
http://www.ferretsanonymous.com/medical.html (California)
http://www.vetcontact.com/en/vet.php?k=3D91 (Specialists anywhere)
You can also ask regional clubs, look in magazines, and do Google searches.
These all vary from each other and some are more up to date than
others because they rely on people sending in updates.
Getting a ferret is like having a baby: loads to learn, health appointment=
s, and
patience acquired for a tiny individual who is very smart.
The resources others have recommended and the ones here will get you
started.
Sukie (not a vet)
Current FHL address:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ferrethealth
Recommended ferret health links:
http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/ferrethealth/
http://ferrethealth.org/archive/
http://www.afip.org/ferrets/index.html
http://www.miamiferret.org/fhc/
http://www.ferretcongress.org/
http://www.trifl.org/index.shtml
http://homepage.mac.com/sukie/sukiesferretlinks.html
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